Tuesday, March 8, 2016

Restoration Clothing (Baroque)

Clothing in the Restoration expressed the suppressed feelings of freedom during the Puritan period. The frivolities of courtiers had been stifled for eleven years and the Restoration is the period that everything that had been stifled is cut loose. Curls, ribbons puff, flounces and feathers returned to clothing wherever they could be attached. Masculine and feminine dress began to take on the stiffness and smart elegance that had been abandoned with James I's death.


Gentlemen wore wigs that had curls all over it and they shaved their heads. The faces were shaved at first then only a thread of a mustache if any. The hat moved to a high-crown, stiffer and a little narrower-brimmed hat and it was cocked to side.

All men tried to wear cravats around the neck rather than the huge collars.


Women wore ringlets clustered in the back of the hair with smaller tendrils waved around the face which replaced the earlier dense frizzle. Rich women would weave pearls into their hair and put nosegays in their buns, however, the common people wore simpler hair. In the Old and New World they continued to wear caps, especially in the Colonial scene.

Collars were higher but wider across the shoulders and necklines were low, wide and dropped on the shoulders. Most women wore under dress with another garment on top and if the she could afford it the bodice and skirt would be attached. If she was poorer the skirts and bodices were of different colors. In this period the apron became very popular and in fact it could be classed with the skirt rather than an accessory. Skirts were a tad bit shorter and peasant women shortened their dresses to the instep, while court women shortened their skirts just to show the toe.


The court used deep-toned velvet and light colored satin and colors at Versailles were subdued. The Colonial fashion was not subdued and bright-hued garments prevailed. Red, blue, yellow and green were popular and fearlessly combined. Men often wore red coats and women's petticoats were also red but in flowered silks. Hats and shoes were black and stockings were light colored.


Notable Cavalier and Puritan Costume Elements - Baroque

Values: Religious beliefs and practices played perhaps the greatest role in the various expressions of baroque art. The Reformation of the mid-1500's divided Europe into Catholic countries and Protestant countries. In most Protestant countries, including Germany and England, art was considered an unnecessary luxury and was suppressed.

Women:

Life in the 1600s was not did not stray far from these traditions, and allotted practically all power in its era to its men. The men received the social rights to full educations, to property, and to vote, and the women were seen as, essentially, second-class citizens, relying on their husbands or fathers for near everything. Accordingly, the 1600s woman was provided with only a minimal education, whether this be at home or at an elementary school; the luckier, upper-class women were sometimes gifted with private tutors.

Resources: Exploration and discovery created new trade routes for a wide variety of fabrics.















Falling Bands—A collar of fine white lawn edged with lace, later developed into the pleated rabat. It is the wide collar spreading out over the shoulders that is seen in the later portraits by Anthony Van Dyck, and in this width is sometimes known as rabatine
 


Falling Ruff—A neck ruffle related to the ruffs of the Elizabethan period but not stiff or extending upward. They created this look by not starching the ruffs.
 


Bertha Collar—Large feminine collar almost always made of lace.

 


Boot Hose—Hose of sheer white linen with wide lace frills at the top worn to protect the gentleman’s costly silk hose when worn with boots. The lace top was usually allowed to fall down over the leather cuff of the boot.
 


Puritan Hat—Tall conical hat with a large round brim often decorated with a buckle and belt.


Cavalier Hat—A wide brimmed hat often decorated with a large feather and one side either, front, back, left or right cocked up.
 


Peplum—Flared shirt-like panels or ruffles below the waist that would conceal the top of the skirt under the shirt.




Studied Negligence—To look as though you have spent no time on your appearance but in actuality there was great preparation to look unkempt.

 


Articulated Shoes—Shoes with heels.

 

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